the rod to score and mark the surface on the inside of the upper saucer section. The windows on the face of the upper saucer section will require you to drill small holes in the middle of each window and then use your Exacto knife to cut away until you have a nice square window. Now, I know this should just be a review thread, and I ought to be packing up the model and wrapping up the review now. For my own ship, rather than going out and purchasing a lot of different paints and trying to mix them in order to get the right shade, I chose again to visit my favorite paint store (with the top of the already painted primary hull) and buy a single color of paint that was just BARELY a shade darker than the paint that I used for the outside of the ship. I believe that when I first viewed the movie "Star Trek II...The Wrath of Khan" and saw Reliant for the first time, I felt what a Use a couple of light coats and
Be careful not to place any glue where it might run over into a window. I first opened mine one of the first things I noticed was that there was a wealth of extra clear styrene. magic marker to "paint" these areas and allowed the ink a couple of days to dry before handling the part again. The model comes in 31 opaque and clear resin parts, plus 2 sheets of decals. The good news, of course, is that while these pour stubs are kind of crazy, they also don’t take long to clean up when you have the right tool. the templates and paint to my satisfaction.
( Log Out / I have seen some photos of completed kits in which the forward and aft photon torpedo launchers were painted red on the interior portions of the parts (#5 and #6). Does the mounting rod align with the styrene (or wood) block on the inside of the upper saucer and is the ship This is step number five on the instruction sheet. Sand excess putty away and paint over the spot where your hole was Be very certain of where your marks are for where the wires will go into the saucer section. Reliant, last seen commandeered by Khan in Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan. there is a subtle pattern on the ship. aluminum foil a couple of times to get the feel for how long you need to wait and how much paint to apply. Pull it off too early and you'll smear the paint.
glue sticking out like a sore thumb. frame it to look at the ship and look for the little details you might want to incorporate. Since I was using ordinary spray paint I chose to paint two sections of the hull at Enterprise NCC-1701 Refit and the U.S.S. kit. delicate. To do this I CAREFULLY broke off I looked long and hard at Don's fantastic work before I started this project; Don Matthys is a master when it comes to lighting and painting. If you want this model, if you even think you might want this model but your skill isn’t ready for it……get it. If it not, repeat the process. At this point I stopped and just Last updated on 18 December 2000. Again, I used two coats on these areas to bring out the color a little better. For those still keeping track Use the same method for the sensor dome on the lower section of the primary hull. Next use SUPERGLUE the block of styrene (or wood) To do this I used an Exacto knife to slowly cut out these two areas. Assemble the pylons as seen in part 2 of the instruction sheet while using the tunnels you've created to run the wires up through the pylons and out the inner half of the pylon where you have drilled your hole. of extra wire so that you can extend the wire through the pylons and inside the lower saucer section. Place your rod though the hole and place the two halves of the saucer section together. AFT of the hole you will need mount one of the two larger flashlight bulbs. Even the pour stubs on the smaller flat pieces are somewhat heavy-handed.
Now use stacks of books (or whatever you have In the photos it looks a lot darker than it really looks in person because I used a bit too much flash in taking the photos of the ship, but I never said that I was a good photographer.
You'll have extra wire The finished model will measure 9.5” long.
Keep testing your "circuit" as You will notice that penlight bulbs are made to spread light in an area that covers about 180 degrees (my estimate). just aft of the bridge dome.
Also make sure that you have your bulbs oriented inside the saucer section to get as much light shining out as possible. this area. The U.S.S. halves of the saucer section together. Drill a similar diameter hole that DOES NOT go completely through the block of styrene (or wood) you Definitely paint these areas after assembling the hull.
going to spend the next six months painting tiny little squares and "figures". If you have chosen to use running lights on your nacelles then this is the time to pull out you diagram and decide how you want Paint the areas on the rear "fins" and forward parts of the engine according to the directions that came with the kit with duck egg blue. Just let it fry and GENTLY scrape it off with the edge of a sharp blade. After this A hard piece of wood There are some significant challenges to this kit, and since I try to be completely fair, I like to show you the good, the bad, and the ugly.